Linen Summer Coat

This is my second version of Vogue 8926 (first one here). It was supposed to be a dress – I simply extended the length to the knee. However, after finishing, it really didnt look right on me as a dress. So I unpicked the belt attached to the front, put two belt loop on the side, and now a summer coat is here!

It is quite nice to wear over a dress, or as a coverup at the beach, I ended up liking it!

 

We went on a mini vacation @ Pajaro Dunes… rented an apartment right on the beach – it was very relaxing and the kids loved it! I pretended here that I am wearing my new summer coat with bikinis, but in reality it was super duper cold, I was in my winter coat most of the time!ūüėõ


Classic Trench Coat

I made a proper trench coat! Years ago I have tried making my first trench. While I liked it – I had made it out of pretty soft cotton twill, got too greedy making it more fitted, and the whole thing just really didnt work together after our initial honey period. (Do you have a honeymoon period with your handmade garment? I surely do!)

 

Anyways, I felt a need for a coat that is not too heavy and fussy – something made from cotton. I wanted one thats fitted on the shoulder so it doesnt overwhelm my frame, but loose around the bodice so it has a classic… “clinched” look. I also looked over Burberry’s pictures to see what details I would like to put in for my trench coat – and loved the way they top stitch the neck band, brassy closure on collar, topstitch and D-rings on their belt. I decided to re-made that the trench with almost 7 years of added sewing experience.
After many weeks of sourcing the right fabric, and then many many more weeks (6-8 weeks to be exact, started beginning of March) of sewing, and dealing with some sewing machine issues, the coat is finally done!!
First, I am proud to present the list of materials (because they took a while to find):
1. shell fabric – 100% cotton jacketing twill from fashionfabricclub, 4 yards, $22 (sold out, but similar weights here)
2. Lining fabric Р100% cotton sateen from fashionfabricclub,  2 yards, $5
3. buffalo horn buttons from etsy, bigger & smaller – $17
4. hook and eye for collar closure, D-rings for belt details, leather wrapped buckles for belt and cuff – $30
5. grommet for holes on belt – $15 ¬†(end up not using them for now… might add later)
6. heavy duty threads for all those top stitching- around 3 or 4 spools – $5
I am quite proud of being able to find all that I wanted to add to the coat, but am myself a little taken back by how much they all are together (almost $100 and trust me, i had gone with cheaper options wherever i could)! I had wondered if it would be cheaper to buy a coat from fast fashion stores with similar details – and just strip its hardwareūüėõ Granted, I have some extra hardware left, but i dont think I will be attempting another trench for another few years! (Though I do have SO MANY IDEAS).
The pattern I used is from burda magazine, march 2009 – it has a whole section of trench coats in there. I added the back “wings” and added lining.
Those buttons were a bit of a pain to sew on – they kept popping off with my first round of tying knots. the last step was to cut open the button holes and that was nerve racking. I am considering handsewing button holes in the future.
This coat is 100% cotton – lining and shell both. This satin cotton from fashionfabricmart is just amazing – smooth, thin, comfortable and strong. I love this shade of gentle pink. Of course, I have to put my logo and handle on this coat!
Just the collar took about 2-3 sessions of sewing to complete. I wanted to embroider the logo onto the back of the collar (inspired by Burberry putting their signature fabric in the undercollar). All the rows of topstitching on the stand took quite a lot of effort as well, but I love how it makes the collar feel so beefy. I also inserted metal closure for the collar, even though I would never use it. Just becauseūüôā
The belt was top stitched a few times to give it that beefy look, and also added D-rings for the classic trench coat details. (though i believe they were¬†meant for grenades…) My strongest sewing machine (bought a new one!) couldnt even handle the leather+belt, thus there ¬†were quite a few skipped stitches.
Leather buckle for both belts and sleeve belt (is this the right term?)
 the front has flaps, and  I wear it open most of the time:
Side view:
I will end with my favorite picture of the back, I look SO COOL.

 


Pokadot Sunshine Corset

 

_DSF6461

_DSF6483

_DSF6497

_DSF6507

_DSF6510

Another corset from me! This took a while to actually finish. In fact, I started the project before the JBJ coat, but put it aside because I wanted white grommet. to my dismay, it is pretty hard to find reasonably priced white grommets. I kept putting off ordering from corsetmaking supplies, because it would set me back a whooping $25 dollars to get a good set of grommets. I mean, isnt that a little ridiculous for grommets?

So I debated between using my existing gold or black grommet vs buying white ones. After two months (when I finished my¬†JBJ¬†coat), hubby convinced me to just get what I think is the best for the corset. So here it is! a corset where the grommets probably made up for almost half of the cost, lol. (I still think its a bit of a spurge¬†but… erm, treat yo self?)

I used the Cupid Corset pattern from corsettraining, and honestly, this pattern doesnt fit me very well. I think one need bigger boobs to fill out the bust area. Even if I had bigger chest, I am not quite sure if I love the way bust is cut here with the inset. I think next time when I try to make a overbust corset РI will stick with simpler straight piece patterns and avoid insets.

For fabric, I used cotton shell and cotton duck for lining. I decided to not use a waist stay because I dont like how my corset doesnt stretch evenly with a waist stay. Also, the fabric I chose has a  little give Рits more comfortable to wear.

It does go very well with this cute undie I made a long time ago, and it shows up wonderfully in photoshoots. Its such a happy color – I think I will keep it around despite the weird fit. Maybe one day I will be chubbier and would fit better in this.

Year 2016 is proving to be a year of slow sewing. Work has been quite busy lately, kids have been demanding, and Ive been doing time consuming projects. At this rate, I am going to have only 1 finished project a month! (Its end of march – I only finished 2 projects so far with 2 in progress). Fingers crossed for more sewing time!


Nautical inspired JBJ coat

First creation of 2016! Last year – I skipped my yearly Talea coat rendition. This year, I really wanted a toggle coat like this:

inspiration coat

 

The original idea was to use Grainline Studio’s cascade duffle coat pattern, but after much debate I decided that using a TNT pattern is the safer route to go – I dont have much time to play with the fitting of a new pattern these days and Cascade looks like it would need some adjustment for a person with curve. So I merged the front and front side pattern of Talea, and another rendition of Talea coat is born!

 

Oversized hoodie, as usual. I love the little button poking out.

I really cant get over how awesome that shoulder flap thingy looks with the hoodie. in this picture I look like I am wearing armor! I made sure the arm part of the flap curves with the arm hole. It looks just as awesome in person as it does on the photo

Those oversized toggle & rope is one of my favorite buttons on coats so far. It makes me happy every time I need to button up. I was debating on using an actual shell from a bullet, but decided that I dont want to play with gun powder/lead too much.

Real leather for pocket and toggle button patch. They are a pain to sew on. I lined the toggle patches against the dart on the bust Рworked out very well.

My awesome logo on the hoodie. A friend visited wearing a lulumelon jacket – with a logo on top. I decided to copy it and i love how it turned out!

JUE00958

The inside is lined with a playful poka dot polyester slippery material, and more logo-ing as well.

I wanted to put a tab on the back – but now I am digging this clean vertical lines on the back and also sick of working with this fabric. I think I will keep this as is.

While I love how the coat turned out, I didnt enjoy sewing this coat as much I did with my previous coat. I think its because the material is a little funny. It is a wool with a rubbery, water-proof backing. But the wool feels very thin and the rubber feels thick. So the material is actually a little stretch-prone. The top stitches also sinks in quite a bit since its squishy. It feels like this coat will not last as long as my other makes – at which point I would have to remake one because I love it too much!

We took the kids to halfmoon bay over the weekend. The weather was gorgeous, I always enjoy the California coast in the winter on a sunny day. All the fun and no need to fuss with sun block. Little A is quite something when she gets to the water. A few minutes after the above photo, she was literally waist deep in a tide pool. Crazy little spiritūüôā


The JueBeJue Logo

As briefly mentioned on my corset post, I have a logo! A very talented, fashionable and lovely friend P  designed a logo for me based on my handle РJueBeJue.

Juebejue Logo

Its two Js together (for “Jue”s in my “JueBeJue”, and when you look at it side ways, it looks like a B – that stands for the “Be” in the middle. It also looks like an anchor.¬†I loved the logo the moment P¬†explained it, and decide that it should go on all my creations from that point on.

I have ported the logo to embroidery – and now I have big and little versions of embroidery files to put on all my future clothing! I did have to simplify the logo a little to make it work with smaller embroiders, but the concept is the same.

Not much more to say – I love my logo!ūüôā Prepare to see it on all my future creations. Thank you P for such a thoughtful and stylish logo!


2015 Sewing Review

I often get the question: how do you have the time to sew, AND have a full time job (that requires frequent meetings at night), AND take care of two kids? The truth is, I have a really awesome husband and really awesome parents. They share the load quite a lot, and every night, I sneak into my sewing for 10min – 1 hours (if I am REALLY lucky) and work on something. Some weeks, I go without sewing for 3 days and I’d start day dreaming about sewing and even get insomnia until i get to sew.

This year, I have made quite a lot of things considering how busy I was. However, I feel that I have made quite a few things thats quite not me.

Already in the recycle bin to be made into something else.

I liked this initially. But Hubby really did not like it and he’s starting to convince me. aii!

Hated it from the beginning – hubby loved it but could not sway me this time!

This one was difficult to wear. Next summer I will cut off the length and see if I like it better then.

Still just a “meh” about this. but may be I will like it more next year.

Not the greatest handicraft here. Probably will get re-made next year

This was worn very occasionally, I am not super into it.

I wore this frequently for a bit – but I am now out of love with it. I think floral is just not quite my thing unless its a dress.

The dress is not super well cut, esp on me – so I am not 100% in love with it. I am waiting for breastfeeding to be over to see if I like it more after my boobs get smaller.

Photographs well, but I dont wear it often. I might just not be into black tops.

Here are some of the stuff I liked, and worn often. 

Fun addition to my wardrobe, definitely not a workhorse coat, but occasionally it is kinda fun.

 

Worn very frequently in the summer.

Two knit material tops – worn often.

lounge clothing – worn somewhat frequently.

She is probably going to wear this to death. She wears it at least once a week, not to mention that she wears it for all special occasions.

I only wore this once – but I liked the fit quite a lot. There’s not a lot of occasion to wear something like this.

Just a casual tank, worn often but not super special.

I wore this one almost every other day. Very good at home dress.

knitted scarf for my best friend K – she loved it!

Cardigan – worn oftenūüôā

striped sets – worn often!

I love how this looks, even though its a little like a chef coat or “ethic garb”, haha! Still love it!

 

 

Here are the clothing that I LOVED:

Worn almost every week in the spring, and I cant wait to wear it again when it gets warmer.

 

For a “special” designer piece that looks pretty impractical, I actually worn this REALLY frequently. I love it a lot and might make another one sometimes.

 

I love how this dress flutters in the wind. I wore it every week in the summer. Unfortunately this had worn apart in the wash. Next summer I will make another one.

 

I wore this one surprisingly often. I find that as I get older, I dont care as much about other people’s opinion, and I do not mind the extra attention from others from wearing something unconventional doing conventional things.

I LOVE this dress. the color is amazing and the cut is perfect.

And of course, the corsets:

 

 

 

Total makes: 33 pieces!

Project started : project completed/kept : project often worn ratio this year:

 

33:31:23

Even though the number made is higher than last year, they are mostly quick serger knit projects (15 of them!)

number made
sergered top/sweaters 12
corsets 2
coat 1
summer jacket 2
dresses for me 11
Skirt 2
Little K dress 2
scarf for friend 1
total 33

 

 

The sewing have really slowed down starting September – my work got very busy then, and little A started waking up more at night. But I actually feel like I need to slow down my sewing and focus on making just a few pieces that I really love.

As for my new years resewlution last year to comment more on other blogs – that is not going so well. I dont sit in front of my computer when i look at blogs anymore – its mostly when I am putting little A to bed on my phone. Its way too hard to comment on blogs on my phone – and impossible if the blog is hosted by blogspot, even on a computer. So… I stopped stressing about it. Its making me a little tempted to try out instagram/twitter, though I am not sure how many sewists are on there.

Anyways! I am quite happy with my 2015 sewing, I am especially happy with finally completing my attempt at vogue1316 and Alexandar McQueen’s crazy kimono jacket pattern, as well as expanding my sewing skills to corsetry.


Corset Belt

I’ve always wanted a better belt to wear with my kimonos. I¬†often hang out around the house in my kimonos when the kids are sleeping, with no special occasion to celebrate. I am not Japanese, by the way, but I do love how kimonos¬†look. In fact, one of the first things I sewed was a kimono robe. However, once I’ve ordered some vintage kimonos from ebay and seen how a lined kimono is made, making a proper kimono had became a little too daunting to take on- its actually a lot of work!

Anyways, you are suppose to wear an obi with your kimonos. However, tying an obi around your body¬†without it falling off a few hours later is quite an art. Though I like the look of an obi, I’ve always thought it would be good to substitute it with a belt with boning. So after my recent discovery of corsettraining.net, I made a corset belt with the free pattern.

They go quite well together, dont you think?

Here’s the innards of the corset:

As you can see, I went a little crazy with making sure the area around boning is sturdy. The corset has three layers – silvery silk brocade, cotton duck, and purple silk lining; with cotton twill tape around boning area to add sturdiness. However, with the boning channels around the seams, I didnt add twill tape. The seam allowance was enough.

Here’s how it looks on the inside.

Notice the new logo?¬†A very talented friend of mine designed this logo for me, based on “JueBeJue”. I’d have to do a special post for this. Points to anyone who could guess¬†the representation of this logo!ūüôā

Laced up from the back. Also, I am not sure if this is due to the eyelets being closer, or that I am using a double faced satin instead of corset lacing, but the lace does not slide as easily in this – so this is actually a little harder to get out than my last corset – which had a longer back.

Laced up from the front.

As you can see, it gives some curve to a usually flat kimono outfitūüôā It looks very… the west meets the east!

A little side story here. These pictures are taken in UC Berkeley, where hubby and I met. This is taken near Dwinelle hall. It was when finals were over, so there was not a lot of people around, and this spot was pretty private. So here we were going about shooting photos with a kimono in the rain, all of sudden I saw two painters having their faces plastered on one of the¬†windows in Dwinelle hall to see what we were up to (they were really close). ¬†It was kind of funny – especially that¬†we had seen¬†one of them peeing right out Sather gate… oh Berkeley…

That bottom part really bothered me. I didnt cut the binding in bias – because I was being lazy and also wanted to preserve more of this expensive silk. Luckily, after I washed the corset, the binding softened up and lies flat against my body.

 

Lastly, I leave you with my favorite picture to close out my last creation of the year!

 


Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.

Join 177 other followers