I made this:

A few years ago I saw a dress in Pinterest and I finally got around to making it.

I decided to make a red version, and while it didn’t come out exactly as I had planned, it looks pretty good on me!

I made it using a red rayon crepe, which is a wonderful material to swish around in. (It is as soft as rayon Challis but feels more opaque and slightly heavier). The top part I used McCal 5039,, and the bottom is just a half circle skirt connected with a wide elastic band. There are elastics around the neckline and armhole. Then a bunch of frills on the bottom.  I do like to pair it with my black leather belt, black Greek sandals and black elephant bag.

After making it, I knew I had to add a few inches to the top part and not have a elastic band around the middle, and this needs a fuller skirt. I’ve already made a black version that is closer to my inspiration.  In any case, i do love wearing this version, and red is always a fun color to swish around in!

You May remember that last summer I made a Ogden Cami from the cutest rainbow drop fabric I got from a trip to Seattle. I had made it in anticipation to match with my girls. This week I finally got my acts together and made little K and little A their dresses!

Little K’s dress is self-drafted, based off one of her favorate tank dresses- and I made it with tied straps on the shoulder, and elastics around the waist.

Little A’s dress is a racer back tea party dress  – and since I made hers last I knew I had enough fabric, and added frills on the bottom.

I know – we look adorable together!! This collection is definitely a crowd pleaser 🙂 I do love that all 3 garments are from different patterns and are different.

 

 

I am so excited to show you this – I made a parka coat with removable lining!

I have a lot of wool coats, and recently realized that i really enjoy wearing cotton coats in warm California winters – and they are a lot earlier to wear to trips (more foldable and was he able). So when I saw Vesna’s awesome orange parka – I immediately wanted to make one for myself.

It took a while to find the right shade of orange cotton twill, but i found them in fabric.com and bought 3 yards. The project got pretty nerve-wrecking towards the end – when it was completed i barely had a 5inchx5inch piece left! The lining were all Bemberg rayon lining, its my first time using it and i might be sold! The fur is from Joan’s and is very soft and slippery. The zippers and snaps and eyelets were found on ebay. It did took a while to find all the materials i needed and I had to order an extra packs of the snaps at the end because I keep messing up installing the smaller snaps.

Vesna’s version had the fur layer sewn into the lining. But California is so warm, I wanted a removeable fur lining. I also wanted lining for the base coats, and proper lining for the fur vest so I could wear the best standalone also. This means I had 4 layers of this coat to make! But the result is a 3-in-1 : thin parka, warm furry parka, and furry vest – press the right button on the instagram post  to see the video of how it all snaps together!

View this post on Instagram

It is ALMOST done!!! Swipe right for video of detachable fur layer 😎 . . . This project was started around January 25th, and it’s taking almost 3 months to finish, probably the longest I’ve taken for a sewing project. It’s been a really tough few months, I usually use sewing to cope with stress but I didn’t have the time or the sewjo for a bit. It was tempting to just move on and take on a easier project, but at some point this coat became symbolic to the difficulties I was experiencing and I really wanted to finish it just the way I had envisioned. Things are better so I finally got to finish the inner fur lining this week. I am still working on a snap strip so that I can wear the fur layer as a vest, closed up. Unfortunately I ran out of snaps half way, so I am going to have to wait for an eBay shipment to finish this. But for now, I can wear it with removable fur lining!!!! #sewing #juebejuecopieskelerabeus #everybodycopieskelerabeus #theykilledkenny #asiansewists #imakemyownclothes #burda012016

A post shared by Juebejue (@juebejue) on Apr 20, 2019 at 3:57pm PDT

I first of course, made the outer parka. There are a lot of details.

Of course – embroidered label in the lining:

Little rope tail things (what do you call this?)

Clinched waist – can you tell i love white ropes in my projects?

This time I also made a small “JueBeJue” logo for an arm patch, i love how it looks!!

 

Below are some pictures without the fur lining, the coat fits pretty well, and the rayon lining is superbly comfortable and slippery. I dont remember what adjustments I made 100% now, but even with the pattern printed @ 91%, it was a little big on the shoulders. I think i would want to print it smaller if I were to do it again. I also took off 2 inches in the torso somewhere…

 

 

 

 

For the vest itself – because I needed it to be a little more fitted (didnt want all the fur bunching), so it took it in from the side quite a bit. Also, because the snaps on the vest were all the mail snaps, they couldnt snap together in vest form. So I made a male-male adapter (yes I am an engineer) by making a strip with 2 rows of female snaps. It works decently, though its a pain to snap those things up and down. if I were to do this again I might opt for thin separating zippers instead.

 

 

The coat is quite warm when the fur layer is in! I love the option this coat gives me, and its a perfect coat for taking on our camping trips. I always feel just warm enough!

I hope you love this coat as much as  I do! Thank you for reading!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I made a Wiksten Haori!! It seems to be all in the rage on Instagram, and honestly seeing so many beautiful versions can be quite tempting… I finally decided to de-stash my “upcycle” pile and make Wiksten Haori from it.

The pattern itself is very easy, I cut a Xs, and took 2 inches off from the mid-length. Next time i need to take 2 inches off the sleeves too – its a bit long.

I made the whole thing “wish-washy” – the patch work is all made up as I went without much pre-meditated plans. I tried to keep one side light and one side dark – so its not too chaotic. I made sure nothing is really quite straight or parallel or symmetrical so that its easier to just sew without pressure to do any measurements. I added in some fabric from a dress mid-way because it was looking a little dull. I thought the color choice for lining was quite brilliant, though i almost ripped it out for something softer. The lining fabric added some stiffness to this jacket, which desperately need more drape. But i think it turned out alright, and i hope it will soften with wash.

Oh i ran out of fabric at the end! This pattern uses more fabric than i imagined, also i had to cut around hubby’s knee bags on his jeans. So at the end I ended up cutting through actual purchased fabric for the outer collar. I didnt mind it so mind – its kind of nice to have a clean upper collar with a patched under collar.

All in all, a very organic patch working sewing process, which i really enjoyed. I had been trying to go away from the oversized look the past few years, so i hesitated with sewing this for a while. But the jacket turned out pretty cool –  i reach out for it more often than i thought i would. I think it will be great for camping, as its so sturdy and wind resistant. Hooray more casual outerwear!

 

 

 

Another year of sewing had come and gone! I think I’ve had a pretty good year sewing-wise – some very successful projects! Some are unblogged – so you are going to see some new stuff below.

Kids Clothing

First up, some unselfish sewing. I made quite a few toys for the kids this year – we often make a random bag or pillow or soft animals here and there. I didnt keep track of them much – i suppose I get much more excited about apparel sewing. So here are stuff I’ve made for them.  Its really not much comparing to how much I sew for myself, but honestly, A has more than enough cloth, and K is very particular about what she wants. She tells me to not sew stuff for her unless she’s very sure its a style she wants. What she wants and what I want to sew hasnt overlapped too much. I do feel pretty lucky to have such a conscious 7 year old who doesnt want me to waste time making stuff that she might not like.

made : kept : frequently worn ratio is: 8 : 8 : 6

Matching sweaters dress:

I love how these looks on them, but for little K the head hole was a little small so she doesnt love wearing this. little A is a lot more receptive to my outfit suggestions and wore hers pretty often.

Matching Poka dot dresses:

They loved these dresses – they are in every. single. laundry load. They do love their rayons! I plan to make more for them this summer 🙂

Little rope Rayon dress – little A likes this dress quite a bit:

(Unblogged) This amazing (if I may say so myself) butterfly top. I love it a lot and little K did too, but maybe its too much – she didn’t want to wear it after the first time she did… So I need to wait for little A to wear this for a insta-dad picture set.

(unblogged) A very Swirly dress for little K, she likes it a lot!

View this post on Instagram

She was a bit sick over the weekend so we stayed home and spent quality time in the sewing room together. Her request for a puffy skirt morphed into this super twirly gathered patch skirt, and I still need to brace myself and finish that monster of a hemming job. She made that bag herself, and I got to show her how boning works with a pair of 🥢 😂 (was too lazy to find my boning and the bag is just the width of a chopsticks! @tinkerbunk I kept thinking about your story of your grandma-made skirt that gets a new layer every time you grew taller as I was making this 🙂 . . . #handmadekids #sewingwithkids #handmadekidsclothes #sewing #handmade #memade #memadefashion #diy #diyfashion #slowfashion #imadethis #imakemyclothes #handmadewardrobe #imakemyownclothes #instasew #handmadeoutfit #diyoutfit #sewersofinstagram #ilovesewing #juebejue2018

A post shared by Juebejue (@juebejue) on Mar 18, 2018 at 5:45pm PDT

(Unblogged) Rayon velvet rope for little K.

She had requested the same rayon robe I made for myself last year. I had such a hard time hemming the velvet so I just lined this one with grey jersey so i dont have to hem it. This rayon velvet is stretchy, so it was really hard to make! She loves it though, so all worth it at the end!

Accessories

Not including random toys I made for kids, I made two bags this year and they are both big, long, but enjoyable projects! All kept and used frequently.

Mr Elephant Bag – perfect As a “basic” black little bag! It worked especially well after I got a smaller phone.

Quilted Tool bag: it has been and will be heavily used. I put my knitting project in there so its perfect!

Clothing for MEEEEE

Of course, mostly i like clothing for me! Lets start with my least successful one!

Knitted sweater – not worn even once! But I did learn how to purl properly with this one. I cannot unsee the mistake and its too warm. I might frog this for making a sweater jacket or something.

July 4th dress. It looks pretty great on the photos but its just… not me. I tried altering it and ended it being too short. It is wasting away in my scrape fabric pin.

Grey Dress, i like this one but for some reason just dont wear it often. I think it will work better on my body if I opened up the bottom of the skirt.

(Unblogged) Olive skirt – super simple rectangle skirt, i made it slightly larger so I passed it to my mom. But its pretty nice!

(Unblogged) Rayon pants – very basic, and comfy. I wore it a few times but should wear it more!

(Unblogged) two tops from the same fabric – mostly to test out the cover stitch I bought and while I am not all that excited about them, I wear them since they fill a wardrobe gap.

Striped top + black linen skirt – I wore this combo to work so often!

Grey sweat shirt + Jade skirt combo – I wore this combo a lot! Though these two are more versatile with other stuff in my closet!

(Unblogged) I actually love this make but haven’t had the chance to blog this. I made this trench inspired skirt and love the color. The black button makes this one combo well with black.

I also made some Ogden top/dresses, and wore all of them often:

Okay, now the Dresses that I loved wearing! Most are all blogged and I really like them:

(Unblogged)  I made this apron dress and need to make a tutorial for this! Hence Unblogged.

My favorate dress of the year:

Okay, now it comes to my favorate type of things to make – jacket/coats!!!

This one is striped moto jacket, its a little crazy so I cant wear it to many places. However,  I still love it!

I love this pink coat design, but the interface sucked and its a little wonky now. I still wear it but am now stocked up on better quality interface! It’s worth every penny.

And lastly, my favorate make of all year, this crazy convertible trench coat!

I noticed that I am out of the “lets make the basic camel and black coat” phase – all of the coats I made this year has some colors!

So for apparel I made myself, ratio of made : kept : worn often is:

26:24:22

Summary

Total made:kept:worn_often ratio is 36:34:30 – probably one of the worse ones in recent years. But I’ve also made some very cool stuff so I am quite happy.

My selfish: non-self sewing ratio was 28:8 – I had been much more selfish this year comparing to the last O_O

Here’s the types of stuff I made:

• Toys: 3 (no pictures!)
• Kids clothing: 8
• Fancy bags: 2
• Women dress: 11
• Women top: 7
• Women’s pants: 1
• women’s skirt: 4
• Women coats: 3

I am surprised by how many things I made this year! I’ve had an very busy year with work, and picked up night swimming later in the year. I wonder how I managed to make more than last year! Maybe  the average difficulty of most of the things I’ve made is less? Or maybe because the kids are playing more together on the weekend and I often have 10-20 minutes of “sneaking into the sewing room” time. Anyways, what a productive year! In the new year I aim to read more instructions and learn better techniques for sewing! Thank you all for reading my sewing ramble for another year!!

 

 

 

My first finished project for 2019!! I made a Yates Coat! When the Yates coat first came out – I was admiring it from afar. It is not something I normally go for, but i loved the ingenious way the pocket is constructed, thought of all kinds of dual-colored coat this could make, and kept in mind that fit from Grainline Studio has always been very chic.

So when I spotted some fuzzy/furry grey AND pink wool on fashion fabric.com, I immediately thought it would make a great Yates coat. Honestly, how often do you come across furry fabric that is made 92% of wool? and how often do they come in two different, but coordinating colors? I just had to get it and make something with it, and the Yates coat is perfect. But oh my – there was drama of getting the wool. It went out of stock after I ordered, and i worried a little because they have in the past had fabric going out of stock but is still on the webpage. Then my order came in and i was so sad to see it didnt have the wool I ordered. Then the wool got back in stock a few days after my order came in, and I huffed and puffed and then decided to email them. The lady who helped me was very nice, some and she was able to get the last bits of the pink plus the grey wool to me (they had a mistake when they filled the order). Then I got my order and was a little shocked to see how “sparse” the back of the wool is. Its normal for fur piles but I was just not used to my wool looking like that! Then I learnt the wonder of fusible woven interface, which worked very well on this fabric. Whew – are you following the drama? definitely some emotional ups and downs with acquiring the fabric and making it work. and yes, maybe I have a problem.

(for my own record I used Pellon SF101 Shape-Flex Interfacing).

On the other hand – the lining is also from fashion fabric club, and was in the first order 🙂 it is SO dreamy – 52% rayon, very slippery and amazing, soft sheen. I was pained to cut into it for lining – i feel it should be saved for a lacy slip or something. But the color is perfect for this coat, and worked out perfectly. I still have a little left and might make a little biased something.

I decided to follow the pattern completely, which means less room for embroidery tags, so i embroidered a smaller sign in the back, and “juebejue 2019” on the bottom side.

And the pockets – I worried a little my Iphone would create too much weight/drag lines, but the top piece is interfaced and have good support. Yes, the pocket is roomy enough for an iPhone! Also, look at the cross road of the two seams! How sharp! (Sorry, patting myself on the back for that one).

Due to the porous nature of the fabric, I was tempted to interface more than what was recommended in the instruction (like, every piece). I am glad I didnt, the wool help up well on its own (esp the back, which is not interfaced) and showed nice drape.

I added two snap buttons instead of 4 – it was enough to keep the coat closed.

I actually bothered to read the instruction in detail and for the first time did the “bagging the lining” method by turning it through the sleeves. I also learnt to understitch seam allowances to the lining to keep lining from poking out. It was one of the quickest coat make – not too many pieces and the pockets were a piece of cake to do. I also printed the patter @ 91% as the pattern is drafted for a 5’5 woman, and then used a size 6 for bust , 8 for waist and  hips. I didnt make a muslin – that’s how much faith i have in Grainline Studio! The fit was pretty spot on, i love how its comfortable and oversized, but still fit at the shoulder.

Thats all! After the project I realize I have some pink remnant and grey remnant wool in my stash already (abeilt different texture)… so i didnt need to buy this fabric per-say, but the fuzziness is just so adorable i do not regret my decision to go through some emotional roller coasters for these fabric. Now I still have quite a bit of the grey fuzzy left (this only needed 1.5yd of the pink and .5 yd of the grey @ 55″ wide), wonder what I can make with that!

I love convertible things. If you ask hubby -I am a very non-commitmental person. (Though if you do get me to commit to something I stick to it stubbornly). I think for that reason, I really like to think of ways to make convertible clothing if I cant decide upfront some of the details.

So I made this convertible coat! It has a base coat, plus three optional features that can be attached independently of eachother. It has a hoodie, a vest, and longer-length bottom.

First, check out a video when I just had the coat, vest, and longer bottom:

View this post on Instagram

I made a quick video to show you how the convertible piece works! There are 4 ways to wear and 5 separate pieces so far, I probably will add belt loop to the base coat so I can belt it without the vest. Also debating on adding a convertible hoodie, because I have extra fabric and ideas. I am quite in love with this one. Also, can’t figure out how to convert a vertical video properly to horizontal quickly, I’ll probably put the full length in IGTV sometimes for full body view at the longer length! . . #sewing #convertiblecoat #convertibleclothing #imadethis #imakemyclothes #memadecoat #burdastyletaleacoat #burdachallenge2018

A post shared by Juebejue (@juebejue) on Oct 27, 2018 at 10:08pm PDT

The base is my TNT pattern – a modified burda style Talea coat. I did borrow the collar from another burdastyle pattern, since my last version of it had just the right proportion for my taste.

———-

On top of the base, I added a little vest – this would be the gun flap and the rain guard in the back. The vest has a little slot on each of the side to allow the belt loop to go through. I drafted the vest myself – its actually a single piece – no seam on the shoulder. It is secured by the epaulettes on the shoulder (show on the right side below) which actually unbuttons. The vest came out so well – the gap in the back is exactly as I had envisioned. I actually dont ever wear the coat without this little vest, but having it as a vest rather than in a built in gun flap + rain guard significantly reduces the seam bulk around the arm area – so I’d do the same thing if I were to do this again!

 

———-

The coat itself is unlined – I enclosed all the seams with Hong Kong bias binding made from a red stripy fabric left over. It was a lot more work than putting in lining, but the end result is quite worth it. Besides, I needed a more light weight coat. The white -based bias binding also resulted in picking white for the label embroidery, as well as the little white button on the shoulder. I love how the white contrast with the red!

 

 

———-

Then I also added separating zippers to the bottom hem, so that i can attach the extended length on. The zipper is the thinnest i could find online, but it still does add a little bit of stiffness. It is not obvious at the shorter length, but when I wear it at longer length, it is more obvious. I wonder if i would do snaps in the future – but snapping like 20 snaps would certainly makes me too lazy to attach the thing.

I didn’t think i would wear it often at the longer length, but i ended up wearing it a bunch on a winter trip to Joshua Tree National Park – it was so good at keeping out the wind even though it was single layered! I had to layer it quite a bit, and wished for some buttons 🙂

———-

After the project was over, I had a bunch of left over fabric. I thought about what else I might want – and decided the way I had constructed the collar is rather perfect for adding a hoodie. So I did, hopefully the photo and video below shows how it is done easily.

 

 

 

Video:

View this post on Instagram

If you are not sick of seeing my convertible red coat yet – I added a hoodie and this video shows how to detach it easily! #sewing #convertiblecoat #memadewardrobe #memadecoat

A post shared by Juebejue (@juebejue) on Jan 14, 2019 at 7:29pm PST

———-

All in all, there are 8 different ways you can configure this coat – which is quite fun. I usually put on hoodie if it is rainy, and the longer length if its windy.

Lastly, the fabric is a beefy Kaufman Ventana cotton twill from fabric.com. It was my first  time working a coat with a 44” wide fabric and I severely underestimated how much I needed. I had to re-order fabric for the first time in my life – luckily this thing is in stock all the time. I bought 8 yards (4 was definitely not enough) total – still have a little more which I haven’t decided what to do with. Do you have any good idea for additional attachment? 😛 I am debating on a vest that could carry bullets on our skeet shooting dates.

Anyways – this has been a long post! There are just so many details to this coat that I am excited about! 🙂 Thank you for reading and I hope you enjoyed reading about this as much as I did making it!