First of all, let me just say this is probably the last and only black coat I will be making as long as we still have a cat with white fur in the house. It is almost impossible to get all the cat hair out for the photo shoot!
When I was in boston freezing my legs off earlier this year, I started craving for some ankle length coats. Ive always made hip length coats – they are easier to wear for petites. However, now that I am fairly confident with fitting my body, I wanted to try a longer length coat on myself – a fun sewing/fashion challenge!
I had been stash busting my wool coating and the last one left is this twill wool coating that I am not super excited about. It is your basic wool coating, and not super tightly woven like the ones I am used to. However, that means it drapes well, and fantastic for this coat Ive been saving in my Pinterest.
(My attempt to copy the inspiration picture from Wendy- I probably need a tighter white dress and skinnier legs heeheehee)
I again used my TNT pattern Talea coat from burdastyle, made my same alteration to change front to a single piece with a dart (instead of two piece each side), lengthened it, and drafted a notched collar. I originally planned to do a kick pleat vent, but totally forgot to cut the extra fabric for it while cutting. I definitely had no extra fabric left to cut another one, so I had to go with a split vent. I also debated whether to flare the coat as the original inspiration, but decided against it because flared coat tend to not flatter my figure for a day-to-day wear (e.g. not with a 50s dress), and also, I didnt have enough fabric (yes yes i thought in that order). I am quite proud of my collar drafting hack – as it turned out beautifully and was easy to sew.
I chose to do a clean welt pocket, it is lined with black satin, and the front piece is reinforced with interface so that I can actually put my iPhone inside.
A single black metal hook as closure… I plan to wear this coat open most of the time.
One of my favorite parts – the lining. The reason I liked the original inspiration is the white and black lining, so of course I need to make this coat accordingly. I found a 50% rayon white shirting on fashionfabricclub – it worked very well for lining and is comfortable. But its not slippery enough for the sleeves so those are made with 100% rayon satin from fashionfabricclub. (If i remember right the wool coating is from there too… can you tell I am a fan of fashionfabricclub?I actually bought 10 yards of those amazing black rayon satin – I love them for coat lining!)
I didnt think I would have finished this coat before end of the year, so I timestamped it 2018… oh wells! The OCD in me wanted to push back the completion date… but we can just say, winter 2018?
I refrained myself from my usual top-stitching and ironed the seams flat instead to allow the coat to drape better. It took a lot of self-restraining because I know the seams are weaker this way. But it makes a lot of sense for this coat to not have the top stitching. But I am debating whether to do a round of top stitching around the edges (collars, front lines, bottoms). I always need to make the lining baggier , and when the coat falls naturally the lining piece in the front folds out a little, which drives me crazy. any opinions?
The coat fit very well, its very clean and very basic – quite a departure from my usual detailed/designed coats, but I am enjoying the very different lines and all the different types of outfits it is allowing me!
Lastly – I am ringing in the new year nursing a food baby on the couch… I hope you are all having a fun celebration, whether its a quiet one or a robust one. Thank you all for your readership for the past year, happy 2018 everyone!