Category Archives: Bond Knitting Machine Pattern

Machine Knit Striped Cardigan

Another machine knit sweater! This time I adventured into a different type of yarn instead of the good old Caron simply soft. I actually found a bunch of wool yarn in goodwill for 1.59 each. So I bought all of them without thinking about what to make. Among them was 4 skeins of organic wool from the Full Belly Farm – two beige and two brown, 250 yds each. I thought together they would make a nice striped sweater. The funny thing about those wool – the sheeps on that farm must have rolled in the straw a LOT before they were sheared for this batch of yarn. There was SO many straws and dried grass stuck in the yarn. I picked them out as I balled the yarn, as I knitted, and still have to pick some out after I was done. But I cant complain that much given that they cost less than $10 total for organic wool!!

I knitted this on my knitting machine as usual (pattern below). I sewed two in-seam pockets in the side and I am so glad I did 🙂 The edges are all hand knit since the machine doesnt do anything than regular stockinette knit, which curls a lot.

Other than that, I really love the end result – its really warm and light and not too scratchy – I expect it to become softer with more wear too. This is the first time I used non-cheap yarn on my machine and it turned out beautifully – giving me confidence to try other expensive yarn on the machine next time!

(btw, my color/stripe inspiration for this sweater is here).

You can see the inseam pocket in above picture.

The front view is the least flattering since its just a rectangle on the bodice. I think i should do some shaping on my next try.

I LOVE the view from the back! Those stripes! *swooon*

 

Instruction/pattern for this cardigan:

2.5 tension, size 6 needle

back:

  • 2 out of 4 rods inserted
  • cast on 90 stitches with WY, knit 6 rows
  • K 10 rows, mark arm holes
  • K 40 more rows
  • put center 20 stitches on waste yarn
  • each shoulder will have 35 stitches
  • knitting 6 rows with WY on each shoulder, then take them off the machine

front (make 2 of opposite kinds)

  • 1 out of 4 rods inserted
  • cast on 35 with WY, knit 6 rows
  • knit 10 rows, mark arm holes
  • knit 40 more rows
  • knit 6 rows with waste yarn

join shoulder

sleeves:

  • bring out 56 stitches, and hook on between the markers
  • 1 out of 4 rods inserted
  • knit 20 time, reduce 2 stitch on third stitch on each side once – 54 stitches
  • knit 8 times,reduce 2 stitch on third stitch on each side once – 52 stitches
  • knit 8 times,reduce 2 stitch on third stitch on each side once – 50 stitcheS
  • knit 8 times,reduce 2 stitch on third stitch on each side once – 48 stitches
  • knit 8 times,reduce 2 stitch on third stitch on each side once – 46 stitches
  • knit 8 times,reduce 2 stitch on third stitch on each side once – 44 stitches
  • knit another 4 rows,  take it off the machine on a size 6 needle
  • start knitting with the right side here – knit 8 rows, bind off. (this is basically garter stitch)
stitch sleeve and side seams together, then hang the bottom together, total of 160 stitches onto the machine. Do the following ** please see notes below:
(**note: I actually have to do the three pieces separately for quite a few more rows, even though I bought 2 30-needle extension knit, because the sweater was too small to stretch out to the full 160 needle machine. I hate hand joining seams so I was trying to avoid that as much as possible – and I failed. If I were to do this again I may try knitting this bottom up instead. However, this allowed the side seam to be separated for a longer length below armpit – allowing me to stitch in a in-seam pocket).
  • 6 rows of dark
  • 4 rows of light
  • 8 rows of dark
  • 4 rows of light
  • 10 rows of dark
  • 4 rows of light
  • 12 rows of dark
  • 4 rows of light
  • 14 rows of dark
  • this is when i actually started knitting all 160 stitches at the same time. insert 3 rods for weight
  • 4 rows of light
  • 18 rows of dark
  • 4 rows of light
  • 26 rows of dark

Then take the sweater off the machine and onto size 6 knitting needle – do 8 rows of knitting (garter stitch) then bind off.

Hand join the sides together, maybe stitch in an inseam pocket.

pick up X stitches along the front and neckline. I actually dont remember how many I picked up, but I measured the garter stitch length on the bottom and the length of front&neckline to figure out how many stitches to pick up along the front&neckline (31 stitches for every 7 inches). Then I knitted about 14 times – when I almost ran out of yarn of one of the colors & then bind off. Note that I stitch colors every row so that I use light colors on top and dark on the bottom.

 

 

Advertisements

Beige Machine Knit Sweater Remake

The first sweater I made on the knitting machine was this one. It is one of my husband’s favorite sweater for me to wear. Unfortunately it really stretched out and is very annoying to wear, possibly because I was using a large gauge or maybe washed in the washer without a washing bag. So I remade it, following exact same pattern i used for the grey sweater except for the turtle neck, as the grey sweater had held up quite well over the past year. I am really getting faster and faster at making these basic sweaters – this one took less than a week of here and there. Though I must say, its quite boring. I need to find more challenging sweaters to knit with the machine!!!

 

To be honest I am still not completely happy with this pattern. I think I want the body wider and roomier, and longer for that oversized look. I am hoping it would look more like what I envisioned when I wash it without washing bag a few times and lose my baby weight by next fall. But who knows, maybe I will try again in 3 years!


Machine Knit Pocket Cardigan # 2

My previous attempt to copy a pocket cardigan turned out okay in the beginning, but because I used a cotton material, it stretches  around the neck line too much and shrunk everywhere else adter laundry – became unwearable after a season. I really liked the cardigan (pockets are so useful when you have kids) and decided to suppress my fiber snob self and make it again with simply soft yarn.

 

I accidentally made the pocket a little deep. I think to achieve the more slouchy effect next time, i may have to make the sweater bigger and longer next time. But I like how this one turned out and it probably looks better with my petite frame. The back piece I did a few rows of hand-knit to put on garter stitches so it doesnt roll. I also hand sewn a stripe of knitted long stripe (basic 6 stitch stockinette for a long time – done on the machine) onto the upper pocket/net edges so it doesnt stretch out over there like the cotton version.

Because this is my 5th sweater on the knitting machine, it went pretty fast!! Once you learn the kind of pressure to assert when knitting, it really doesnt mess much often. I think i might do another sweater using this yarn soon. Then I might move onto fancier yarn 🙂

 

Instruction/pattern for this cardigan:

2.5 tension, 2 out of 4 rods inserted
back:

  • cast on 82 stitches with WY, knit 6 rows
  • K 100 rows, mark arm holes
  • K 36 more rows
  • put center 20 stitches on waste yarn
  • each shoulder will have 31 stitches
  • knitting 6 rows with WY on each shoulder, then take them off the machine
  • hand knit bottom hem with #7 needle about 6 times to create edging that doesnt rolls

front (make 2 of opposite kinds)

  • cast on 70 with WY, knit 6 rows
  • knit 50 rows, mark pocket -> next time: 40 rows for pocket is more than enough
  • bind off 21 stitches –  you should have 49 stitches
  • knit 1 row
  • for the next 18 rows, bind off 1 stitch every row –  you should have 31 stitches (release 1 weight bar half way through to keep same tension)
  • knit 31 rows, mark arm holes (> next time: 41 rows)
  • knit 36 more rows,
  • knit 6 rows with waste yarn

join shoulder

sleeves:

  • bring out 50 stitches, and hook on between the markers
  • knit 100 time, bind off tightly
edging:
  • 6 stitches, 50 inches stripe, sew it onto the front edge of cardigan and pocket
sew side seams together.
tabs:
  • two tabs, 6 stitches wide, about 15 inches

 


Machine Knitted Pocket Cardigan

This picture had been in my pinterest for forever, and I’ve been very eager to make it. So as soon as I feel that I’ve mastered the skill to make up my own pattern on the bond knitting machine, I gave it a go!

Screen Shot 2013-04-28 at 12.03.55 AM

My version (doh, i forgot the sunglasses):

I used up a little over 1 ball of the really big sugar& cream  (or maybe it was Lions) cotton yarns. I know that you are not suppose to use cotton for sweater projects, as cotton sweaters are not drapery, and heavier. However, I cant really see myself wearing something wool or polyester during the summer, as it would just be way too hot. I cant bring myself to invest in bamboo/rayon yarn for a pattern I havent tried out either. But the cotton yarn turned out OKAY. I was able to wash it in the washer without it shrinking much. Its comfortable and seems to shape decently against my body after wearing it a few hours. Its just not as drapery as the simply soft polyester yarn I used in all my previous machine knit sweater though.

Here’s the pattern I made up:

    Tension information: 2.5 tension plate, 2 out of 4 rods inserted at all times

back:

  1. cast on 82 stitches with WY, knit 6 rows
  2. K 100 rows, mark arm holes
  3. K 36 more rows
  4. put center 30 stitches on waste yarn – this makes the neck band on the back
  5. each shoulder will have 26 stitches
  6. knitting 6 rows with WY on each shoulder, then take them off the machine

front:

  1. cast on 60 with WY, knit 6 rows
  2. knit 36 rows, mark pocket,
  3. on the next 2 row, bind off 16 stitches  every other, now you have 44 stitches
  4. on the next 18 rows, bind off 1 stitches every row, now you have 26 stitches
  5. k 44 rows
  6. mark arm holes
  7. K 36 more rows
  8. of course, when you make the other front piece, make sure the binding off is from the opposite side so you have two symmetrical pieces

Front neckband+pocket edging:

  1. join one shoulder and join the other shoulder
  2. pick up 114 stitches from each front, 16 on the horizontal, 18 on the decreasing, and 80 for the vertical. hand knit the edges

sleeves:

  1. bring out 50 stitches, and hook on between the markers
  2. knit 100 time

Finishing:

  1. sew the underside of sleeves and also sides of the bodice together. Make sure that you sew the edge of pocket into the body side seam.
  2. hand knit the bottom, knit the two sides together to form the bottom of the pocket for the two front pieces while doing so
  3. I chose to do I-cord finish with 3 stitches, but you can really do anything you want!


Errata:

There are some stuff I wish I did differently. I think the shoulders should really be wider, or rather, the neck band at the back should be shorter. I would probably make the neck band in the back 20 stitches instead of 30 next time, and each shoulder 31 stitches instead of 26. I also think I might have picked up a few too many stitches in the vertical area of the front edging, the front piece curls in a little bit. Also, next time I might make the back longer than the front. This is because I put so much stuff in the pockets that the front piece gets stretched more than the back.

Anyways, I hope someone out here have a machine and want to make this! 🙂  I know I will probably be making it again in another yarn and making it looser like the inspiration  Having huge pockets like that is seriously awesome when you got a little one that asks for crackers and snacks all the time.

Lastly, I am so proud of little K. Just 1.5 years old and she can pose like a band member:


Multiway Grey Sweater

I made my third sweater on my bond sweater machine and its amAAAAAzing! (Sorry, been watching too much Happy Endings. its  a great show for sewing!) I think I finally got the formula down for that slouchy/oversized look that I like so much this season.

This sweater was knitted up on my Bond machine over the course of a few weeks. All the ribbing takes quite a while on the machine (still not as much as hand knitting). I made it so that I can wear it inside out, or outside out 😛 I actually prefers the texture of the “wrong” side of the stockton stitch. It looks like a Garter stitch, which Bond machine cannot do. The only thing is that when you piece two pieces together, it is really awkward if you try to sew it with the wrong side together instead of the right side together. So when I wear it on the wrong side, there are two seams running down the side (not shown here). I made it really neat though, so it doesnt look too bad!.

Note sure if you can tell the difference from the photos, this is wrong side out:

The neck part can be pulled down for the off the shoulder look, which make the sweater a little longer to be worn as a dress as well. I call that sexy mode. When I wear this to work, I wear it like a turtle neck like a sweater, which also makes the sleeves shorter and more convenient for cooking at home. I call this slave/mommy mode.  It is truely a versatile piece!

Lastly, this is made from 100% polyester. I just loved the fact that my first sweater had been washed almost every week during the winter and it never gets damaged or dirty. I am going to have to rethink my position as a fabric snob. I love how the sweaters from this yarn is really soft, and it falls close to my body which shows off curves without being tight or obscene. Though it is quite staticy – my hair goes a little wonky with this dress!

If anyone arrives here looking for Bond Machine knitting patterns, I actually recorded down this one diligently! Though, does anyone even have a bond knitting machine out here? It doesnt seem very commonly used at all!

machine knit sweater – grey:

2.5 tension, 2 out of 4 rods inserted
back:

  • cast on 82 stitches with WY, knit 6 rows
  • K 90 rows, mark arm holes
  • K 36 more rows
  • put center 40 stitches on waste yarn
  • each shoulder will have 21 stitches
  • knitting 6 rows with WY on each shoulder, then take them off the machine
  • flip it around, with wrong side facing you, hang the hem, knit 10 times then rib it. then bind off

front:

  • cast on 82 with WY, knit 6 rows
  • knit 90 rows, mark arm holes,
  • knit 20 rows
  • put center 22 stitches on WY
  • for each shoulder:
  • – Knit 4 rows, decreasing 1 st each time
  • – knit 8 rows, decreasing 1 st every other times
  • – knit 4 rows
  • – knit 6 rows with wy
  • now each shoulder should have 22 stitches

join one shoulder

neckline:

  • bring forward 89  needles
  • with right side facing, pick up 89 stitches:
  • 40 on back neck, 14 on side front neck edge, 22 on front WY, 13 on the other side front neck edge.
  • knit 60 rows, then do ribbing (1 in 4), i made the ribbing at the 2nd stitch and 2nd to last one

join the other shoulder. sew the turtle neck together by hand

sleeves:

  • bring out 50 stitches, and hook on between the markers
  • knit 90 time, rib the last 8 rows

sew the underside of sleeves and also sides of the bodice together


Forest Green Mommy Sweater

Happy new year everyone!! I am still posting projects I did back in 2012, like this green sweater! This is the sweater that I made on my Bond Machine knitting sweater that I am not too crazy about. But it looks decent as an underlayer so I’ve been wearing it here and there.

For my own reference, here’s the exact rows I used. It is based off their instruction pattern, only slightly modified:

2.5 tension plate, 2 out of 4 rods inserted

back:
cast on 72 stitches with WY, knt 6 rows
K 68 rows, mark arm holes
K 48 more rows
put center 36 stitches on waste yarn
each shoulder will have 18 stitches
knitting 6 rows with WY on each shoulder, then take them off the machine
flip it around, with wrong side facing you, hang the hem, knit 10 times then rib it. then bind off

front:
cast on 72 with WY, knit 6 rows
knit 68 rows, mark arm holes, twist center 6 yarsn every 10 rows (the first one should be after only 5 stitches)
knit 32 rows (continue cable)
put center 18 stitches on WY
for each shoulder:
– Knit 4 rows, decreasing 1 st each time
– knit 8 rows, decreasing 1 st every other times
– knit 4 rows
– knit 6 rows with wy
now each shoulder should have 19 stitches

join one shoulder

neckline:
bring forward 81 needles
with wrong side facing, pick up 81 stitches:
36 on back neck, 14 on side front neck edge, 18 on front WY, 13 on the other side front neck edge.
knit 10 rows, then do ribbing

sleeves:
– bring out 66 stitches, and hook on between the markers
knit this 12 times:
– knit 6 rows, on the 7th row decrease one on both side
then knit 17 rows, rib the last 10 rows, bind off

We went on a road trip without little K and I had to bundle up like crazy! but I like how my outfit looked. I am also wearing a scarf I knitted earlier in 2012. Its a really warm wool scarf in seed stitch. I kept on forgetting to do a nice photo shoot for it, but I recently ruined it by putting it in the washer and totally shrunk it. oops! At least I got a lot of good wear out of it!

I hope everyone had a great new year!


Cozy Sweater Dress and Knitting Machine!

 

Yeap! My new toy is a knitting machine!  I had been looking for one on craigslist for forever, one of those nice brother ones for less than a hundred. But I havent been able to find one in months. So I gave up and used a 50% off coupon and bought the ultimate sweater machine for 100 at the local Michaels. You can get one for 150 on amazon that comes with more stuff, but the reviews are not great, and I didnt want to deal with return shipping in case it didnt work for me. There was quite a learning curve, but since I am stuck on the couch feeding Kaylee a lot, I was able to watch its how to video over a few times, and I think I have mastered the machine!

For anyone out there who is considering this machine, here’s my review and some debugging tips.

This machine is very simple to operate once you’ve learnt the how to. Once it is setup and I’ve gotten the keys to move smoothly(knitting a test piece), I knitting a sweater out of it between feedings and diaper changes in 2 weeks. I think if I had an entire block of time dedicated to working on it, I really could make a simple sweater in two nights!

The machine by default makes stocking stitches, and with a little work you can make ribbings and cables. However, you will not be able to do stitches like garter stitch or moss stitches, at least that would be much slower than hand knitting. To get an idea of how it works, watch their howto videos on youtube, that is the best way to find out!

The machine also doesnt do well with chunky weight yard — it tends to split the yarn. Good thing that chunky weights are faster to knit by hand!

Another downside is that you have to secure the machine to a table using clamps they provided. So if you dont have a sewing space, it could be messy having it on your dining table as you finish your project.

A lot of people on amazon said the machine didnt work or dropped stitches. I can understand why they were frustrated by the machine. When I first got it, some of the keys had this grey foam stuck on it and comes out when it is moved, causing the key to not much forward smoothly. That caused dropped stitches. All I had to do was to knit a large test piece, and pick out the grey stuff as it comes out. I also discovered that I tend to press the top of the machine too hard when pushing it across the keys, which cause it to lower and catch some keys on the edge.

Thats it! I think I am going to keep the machine, even though it has much limitations. I cant bring myself to hand knit anything that is less than chunky, and this can make quite a few things without breaking my bank! Here’s the sweater dress I made. This time I used simply soft, a polyester blend. I really like it, as it is soft and light, and not scratchy like wool.

I had been looking for a loose sweater dress like this for a while, but I havent been able to find a flattering one. I used the pattern that came with my machine, but made the body longer, sleeves shorter, and the neckline wider (so I can pull it down for breastfeeding).

The knitting is very neat, there are occasional rows where its a little too tight, but it was due to my cat pulling on my thread, thus messing with the tension.

I am looking forward to making lots of basic sweaters on here! 🙂

Am I going to finish up the sweater in the last post? Definitely not by hand. I think it can be converted to use the machine for the bodice and sleeve part, but  I am still on the fence for that as well. I might just finish up the cable chest part as a head turban!